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The approach into CHEYENNE , dropping
into a wide dip in the plains, leaves enduring memories for most
travelers. With the snow-crested Rockies looming in the distance
and short, sun-bleached grass encircling the town, the sky suddenly
appears gargantuan, dwarfing the city's leafy suburbs and everything
else below it.
A quick walk around reveals a diverse community,
shaped by railroads, state politics, and even nuclear arms. When
the Union Pacific Railroad reached this site in 1867, soldiers
had to drive out the " Hell on Wheels "
brigade of gamblers, moonshiners and hard-drinking gunmen who
stayed one step ahead of the railroads, claiming land and then
selling it for huge profit before moving on to the next proposed
terminal. Union Pacific's sprawling yards and fine old terminus
now mark the eastern edge of downtown, while to the west the city's
longstanding military installation was expanded in 1957 to house
the first US intercontinental ballistic missile base. Cowboy culture
is big here, too, as the ranchwear stores and honky-tonks dotted
around town attest. Along with the world's largest outdoor rodeo,
the nine-day Cheyenne Frontier Days festival
(tel 307/778-7222 or 1-800/227-6336, ) in late July attracts thousands
of people to its concerts with top country stars, parades, chuckwagon
races, air shows and free pancake breakfasts. The rest of the
year, it's pretty quiet; would-be cowboys have to make do with
the Old Cheyenne Gunfight , at 16th Street and
Carey Avenue (summer Mon-Fri 6pm, Sat "high noon"; free),
in which gunslingers act out incidents from the town's turbulent
first decade.
Sixteenth Street , or Lincolnway,
is the retail and entertainment heart of Cheyenne. Five minutes'
walk north up leafy Capitol Avenue near the unspectacular State
Capitol, the Wyoming State Museum , at no. 2320,
takes a sober look at Wild West history (June-Aug Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm,
Sat 9am-4pm, Sun noon-4pm; Sept-May Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, Sat noon-4pm;
free). The Cheyenne Frontier Days Old West Museum
, five minutes' drive from downtown at 4501 N Carey Ave (Mon-Fri
9am-5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm; $3), is more lighthearted, telling
how the railroad came to town, with some great old engines and
well-presented temporary exhibits. Much of the
