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After leaving the gorge, the New River flows west
into the Ohio and eventually the Mississippi, but not before passing
through CHARLESTON , West Virginia's state capital
and largest city. Charleston isn't a place many people set out
to visit, mainly because there's not very much to see or do; the
riverfront state capitol , designed by Lincoln
Memorial architect Cass Gilbert and completed in 1932, is pleasant
enough, with a small monument to black activist Booker T. Washington
on its grounds, but nothing really grabs you. The West
Virginia Cultural Center (Mon-Thurs 9am-8pm, Fri-Sat
9am-6pm, Sun 12-6pm, ; free), in the same compound as the capitol,
acts as the state museum with extensive displays in the basement
on coalmining, forestry, wars and general social history. The
main live showcase of traditional West Virginian culture takes
place here during the annual Vandalia Festival
, Appalachia's largest celebration of folk arts and crafts, held
on Memorial Day weekend and featuring lively bluegrass music and
tall-tale-telling contests. The annual Regatta
on Labor Day weekend is one of the city's other big events.
There are three hundred rooms at
the very central Travelodge , 2 Kanawha Blvd E (tel 304/343-4521
or 1-800/578-7878; $50-75), which also has a sauna and swimming
pool; other motels abound along the interstates. General Seafood
, 213 Broad St (Tues-Sat; tel 304/343-5671), is a restaurant attached
to a fish market, and Capitol Street downtown boasts a string
of eateries such as the Mykonos Caf? at no. 218 (tel 304/347-9220),
which does good Greek lunch specials. On the western edge of downtown,
almost alongside I-64 between Lee and Quarrier streets, the gleaming
new Charleston Civic Center mall is the liveliest
area to while away a couple of hours.