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The wide-open spaces and drab little towns of eastern
Washington don't prepare you for SPOKANE ("spo-CAN").
A few miles from the Idaho border, it's the region's only real
city, and its scattering of grandiose late-nineteenth-century
buildings - built on the spoils of Idaho silver mines - sport
some unexpectedly elegant touches.
The town's nexus is the hundred-acre Riverfront
Park , sprawling over two islands in the middle of the
Spokane River. Originally planned by Frederick Olmsted of Central
Park fame, the park was not laid out as specified until just before
Spokane hosted the 1974 World's Fair. Bisecting the park, the
river tumbles down a series of rocky shelves known as the Spokane
Falls , once a fishing site for native peoples and later
the home of the first pioneers. Attractions include an ice-skating
rink which shares space with the IMAX theater, the charming hand-carved
Looff Carousel , and the Gondola Skyride
cable cars (summer Sun-Thurs 11am-8pm, Fri & Sat 11am-10pm;
$4.75) which run above the falls from the west end of the park.
Most of the relics of Spokane's early grandeur can
be found several blocks southwest on W Riverside Avenue, where
neoclassical facades cluster around Jefferson Street. The city's
nineteenth-century highlights include the Davenport Hotel
, the Clark Mansion , and the Tudor Revival Campbell
House (Tues-Sun 10am-5pm, Sun opens at 1pm; $4), part
of the Cheney Cowles Museum at 2316 W First Ave
( ), a regional history museum holding an impressive collection
of artifacts.
