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Only a mile off the I-95 freeway, about halfway
to Richmond from Washington DC and easy to reach on Amtrak or
Greyhound, FREDERICKSBURG is one of Virginia's
prettiest historic towns, its elegant downtown streets backed
by residential avenues lined with white picket fences. In colonial
days, this was an important inland port, where tobacco and other
plantation products were loaded onto boats that sailed down the
Rappahanock River. Dozens of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century
buildings along the waterfront now hold antique stores and secondhand
bookshops.
Two blocks away, in the 1816 town hall, the Fredericksburg
Area Museum , 907 Princess Anne St (March-Nov Mon-Sat
10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; Dec-Feb Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 1-4pm; $4),
has a broad range of displays tracing local history from Native
American settlements to the present day. The Rising Sun
Tavern , by the river at 1304 Caroline St, was built
as a home in the mid-1700s by George Washington's brother Charles.
As an inn, it became a key meeting place for patriots and a hotbed
of sedition. It is now a small "living history" museum
(March-Nov Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 11am-5pm; Dec-Feb Mon-Sat 10am-4pm,
Sun noon-4pm; $4), where costumed "wenches" guide visitors
around a collection of pub games and ancient pewterware. They
don't, however, serve food or drink any more, except for the glass
of spiced herbal punch you get on the tour.
Fredericksburg's strategic location made it vital
during the Civil War , and the land around the
town was heavily fought over. More than 100,000 men lost their
lives in the major battles of Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville,
Spotsylvania and countless other bloody skirmishes. Indeed Stonewall
Jackson himself was mistakenly killed by his own troops at Chancellorsville
in May 1863. The Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National
Battlefield Park , south of town at 1013 Lafayette Blvd
(visitor center open daily: summer 8.30am-6.30pm; rest of year
9am-5pm; $4 for a weekly pass), has informative exhibits and rents
three-hour audio tours ($5 for tape and player) of the various
battlefield sites.