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LAREDO , over one hundred miles
from the coast, has seen greater days even though it's the fastest-growing
city in the state. Santa Anna marched his troops through in 1836,
and in 1840 the city was the center of Zapata's Mexican separatist
protest. The capitol of Zapata's short-lived republic still stands
on Zaragoza Street in the historic district, now housing the small
Republic of the Rio Grande Museum (TuesSat 9am4pm,
Sun 14pm; $1). San Agustin Plaza, the site of the original Spanish
settlement, has been restored with cobbled streets and Victorian
buildings, as has El Mercado, on San Agustin Avenue, the former
hub of downtown activity.
Greyhound arrives at 610 Salinas St. The
visitor center is at 501 San Agustin Ave (MonFri 8am5pm,
Sat 9am3pm; tel 956/795-2200 or 1-800/361-3360). Toos , 1202 E
Del Mar Blvd (tel 956/717-4999) is especially popular at lunch
for its Tex-Mex standards, and Cotulla-Style Pit Bar-B-Q , 4502
McPherson St (tel 956/724-5747), serves a regional spicy type
of barbecue as well as other Mexican dishes.