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Back when Texas was still Tejas , EL PASO , the
second oldest settlement in the United States, was the main crossing
on the Rio Grande. It still plays that role today, its 700,000
residents joining with another 1.7 million across the river in
CIUDAD JUAREZ , Mexico, to form the largest binational
(and bilingual) megalopolis in North America. At first sight,
massive railyards fill up much of downtown, the belching smelters
of copper mills line the riverfront, and the northern reaches
are taken up by the giant Fort Bliss military base, where two
museums trace the military history of the city from adobe Spanish
outpost to largest air defense center in the western world. Its
dramatic setting, however, where the Franklin Mountains meet the
Chihuahua desert, gives it a certain bold, rough pioneer edge,
bearing more relation to old rather than new Mexico, with little
of the pastel softness of the Southwest US. Local legend has it
that when Wyatt Earp arrived in sharp-shooting El Paso, he thought
it too wild for him, and boarded the first train to Tombstone.
