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The unabashed resort town of CORPUS CHRISTI
is reached along the coast on Hwy-35 from Houston or Galveston,
or on I-37 from San Antonio. Originally a rambunctious trading
post, it too was hit by a fierce hurricane, in 1919, but recovered,
transforming itself into a center for naval air training, petroleum
and shipping. Much of the population is Hispanic, and the community
was devastated in March 1995, when the 23-year-old singer Selena
was shot dead in a motel parking lot by the former president
of her fan club. Selena was on the verge of becoming the first
major cross-over star of Tejano music, a hybrid
of Mexican rhythms, German polka and reggae-influenced Colombian
cumbia , and fifty thousand fans turned out for her funeral. In
addition to the Selena Auditorium at the Bayfront Convention Center,
there's a memorial to the singer just south of Peoples Street
on Shoreline Boulevard; a new Selena Museum ,
5410 Leopard St, is stuffed with Selena memorabilia, from her
famously extravagant gowns to her Porsche (MonFri 911.45am &
16pm; free). The visitor center can supply a free map of Selena-centric
stops.
Apart from fishing, sailing and water sports across
the channel on Padre Island, there's not a great deal to do in
Corpus Christi. The impressive collection of the Philip Johnson-designed
South Texas Institute for the Arts , 1902 N Shoreline
Blvd (TuesSat 10am5pm, Sun 15pm, first Thurs of the month until
9pm; $3; tel 361/825-3500, www.stia.org ), includes pieces by
Monet and Picasso. Further along N Shoreline Boulevard, at no.
2710, is the massive Texas State Aquarium (summer
MonSat 9am6pm, Sun 10am6pm; rest of year until 5pm; $9; tel 361/881-1200
or 1-800/477-GULF, www.texasstateaquarium.org ), which nonetheless
feels cramped compared to the aquarium in Galveston. Adjacent
is the USS Lexington (summer daily 9am6pm; rest
of year until 5pm; $10; www.usslexington.com ), a World War II
aircraft carrier that's impressive to walk around, though the
few exhibits on board are weak. The Corpus Christi Museum
of Science and History , 1900 N Chaparral St (daily:
summer 9am6pm; rest of year 9am5pm; $8; tel 361/883-2862, www.ci.corpus-christi.tx.us/services/museum
), specializes in hands-on natural history exhibits, on topics
ranging from shipwrecks to shells to, curiously, the building
of the Selena memorial. Moored in the harbor a short walk from
the museum, the Columbus Fleet (included in the
museum admission) consists of life-size replicas of Christopher
Columbus's Santa Maria and Pinta .
