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ABILENE has a certain curiosity
value as an oppressively God-fearing Bible city and home to three
Christian universities. There's not much reason to stop here,
though a downtown stroll reveals a few places along Cypress
Street worth a look. At no. 102 the Grace Museum
(Tues-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-5pm, Thurs 10am-8.30pm;
$3, free after 5.30pm Thurs; tel 915/673-4587, ) occupies what
was once the grandest hotel in this former railroad town and is
divided into three distinct sections: regional art, local history
and a children's museum. The Center for Contemporary Arts
at no. 220 (Tues-Sat 11am-5pm; tel 915-677-8389, ) exhibits work
by local artists and is free, while the beautiful Paramount
Theatre at no. 352 (tel 915/676-9620, ) is open for self-guided
tours of its elaborate Moorish interior on weekdays between 1pm
and 5pm. Evening shows range from theater productions to classic
and art films. If you have to stay, there are plenty of interstate
motels , including the well-kept Executive Inn
, 1650 I-20 E (tel 915/677-2200; $35-50), while downtown, BJ's
, 508 Mulberry St, offers homey, comfortable B&B
rooms (tel 915/675-5855; $75-100). Cypress Street is the place
to go for food with the Cypress Street Station
at no. 158 (tel 915/676-3463) offering a more eclectic menu than
you would expect from a restaurant in this locale.
Dozy SWEETWATER , further west
on I-20, began as a general store for buffalo hunters in 1877,
and since 1958 has been mildly notable for its rattlesnake
roundup ( ) on the second full weekend of March, when
you can try fried snake (tough but tasty) or buy a transparent
toilet seat with a rattler coiled in it. As well as the serious
business of the farmers ridding their land of the diamondbacks,
there are parades, cook-outs, a Miss Snake Charmer Queen contest
and snake-handling demonstrations. Of the motels along Georgia
Street, one of the nicest is the Ranch House Motel and Restaurant
(tel 915/236-6341; $35-50).
