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The cotton-trading capital of the Delta,
MEMPHIS , perched above the Mississippi two hundred miles
west of Nashville and three hundred south of St Louis, is one
of the great destinations of the South. Visitors come from all
over the world to celebrate the city that virtually invented blues,
soul and rock 'n' roll, as well as to chow down in the unrivaled
barbecue capital of the nation. A visit to Memphis, the home of
the Sun and Stax record labels, with its frequent festivals and
vigorous nightlife, feels like an invitation to share in a genuine
and enduring local culture.
Culturally and geographically, Memphis has more
in common with the deltalands of Mississippi and Arkansas than
with the rest of Tennessee. Founded in 1819 and named for Egypt's
ancient Nile capital, its fortunes rose and fell with
cotton . The Confederate defeat that ended the war briefly
plunged it into economic chaos, and severe yellow fever epidemics
didn't help, but thanks to its potential for river and rail transportation
Memphis soon bounced back. The nation's second largest inland
port became a major stopping-off point for migrants escaping
the poverty of the Delta, and many stayed, significantly shaping
the city's identity.
For a couple of decades after the 1968 assassination
of Dr Martin Luther King Jr, Memphis tottered on the brink of
decline. In the past decade, however, the city has regenerated
itself yet again, its new self-confidence typified by the extraordinary
321ft stainless steel Pyramid that now dominates
the riverfront skyline. The famous blues corridor
of Beale Street is booming once more, perhaps
a little ersatz but always entertaining, while Elvis Presley's
Graceland a refreshing change from the usual
"gracious southern home" provides an intimate and exuberant
glimpse of Memphis's most famous son.
