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HERSHEY , ten miles east, was built
in 1903 by candy magnate Milton S Hershey for his chocolate factory
- so it has streets named Chocolate and Cocoa avenues, streetlamps
in the shape of Hershey's Chocolate Kisses and air rich with the
smell of cocoa. Hershey Chocolate World (daily
9am-4.45pm; longer hours in summer; tel 717/534-4900) offers a
free mini-train ride through a simulated chocolate factory (accompanied
by sugary, piped warblings of It's a Chocolate, Chocolate World
). Those not content with the free sample given out at the end
can gorge themselves in the vast gift and souvenir shops and caf?s.
Hersheypark , which began in 1907
as a picnic ground for Hershey factory workers, is now a huge,
if poorly organized amusement park with roller
coasters and sundry other rides (mid-May to Sept daily hours vary;
$27.95; tel 717/534-3090 or 1-800/HERSHEY). The adjacent Hershey
Museum of American Life has exhibits on the Pennsylvania
Dutch and tells the Milton S. Hershey story (daily 10am-5pm; $6).
Twenty-five miles south of Harrisburg, the blue-collar
town of YORK is home to the final assembly plant
of Harley-Davidson . The company runs free tours
of its factory and is set to open a full-scale museum in late
2002 (Mon-Fri; call 1-877/746-7937).