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The small town of GETTYSBURG ,
thirty miles south of Harrisburg near the Maryland border, gained
tragic notoriety in July 1863 for the cataclysmic Civil
War battle in which fifty thousand men died. There were
more casualties during these three days than in any American battle
before or since - a full third of those who fought were killed
or wounded - and entire regiments were wiped out when the tide
finally turned against the South.
Four months later, on November 19, Abraham Lincoln
delivered his Gettysburg Address at the dedication
of the National Cemetery. His two-minute speech, in memory of
all the soldiers who died, is acknowledged as one of the most
powerful orations in American history. Lincoln himself was convinced
that it was a "flat failure," and prefaced his remarks
with the words "the world will little note nor long remember
what we say here ?"; you'll be muttering it in your sleep
by the time you leave.
Gettysburg, by far the most baldly commercialized
of all the Civil War sites, is overwhelmingly geared toward
tourism , relentlessly replaying the most minute details
of the battle. Fortunately, it is perfectly feasible to avoid
the crowds and commercial overkill and explore for yourself the
rolling hills of the battlefield (now a national park) and the
tidy town streets with their shuttered historic houses.
