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The Creek Indians, relocated to MUSKOGEE
in the 1830s, established the town as the central meeting place
of the Civilized Tribes, fifty miles southeast of Tulsa; decades
later in 1905, Native American leaders gathered here to draw up
a plan for their own separate state, which was never to be. The
arrival of the railroad in the 1870s and the discovery of oil
in 1903 both guaranteed that the town would be usurped by white
settlers. The Five Civilized Tribes Museum ,
Honor Heights Drive, Agency Hill, tells the Native Americans'
story through costumes, documents, photographs and jewelry, along
with a reconstructed trading post and a printing room (Mon-Sat
10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; $2). The other unlikely attraction in town
is the USS Batfish , a WWII-era submarine moored
in the Oklahoma grass, 3500 Batfish Rd (Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri,
Sat 9am-5pm, Sun noon-5pm; $4).
Muskogee is an appealing place, with a dozen motels
within a few blocks along US-69, including a Days Inn at 900 S
32nd St (tel 918/683-3911; $50-75). It also makes a good base
for the crystal-clear Lake Tenkiller , thirty
miles southeast on US-64. Surrounded by woods, cliffs and quiet
beaches, the lake is perfect for fishing, boating, swimming and
scuba-diving, and has camping facilities, but is (unsurprisingly)
very touristy; call 918/457-4403 for full details. The Muskogee
Tourism Center, Hwy-69 at Shawnee Street (tel 918-684-6363 or
1-888/687-6137, ), can provide details about the popular azalea
festival held in April.