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Today, the great industrial port of CLEVELAND
- for so long the butt of jokes after the heavily polluted
Cuyahoga River caught fire in the early 1970s - is no longer the
"Mistake on the Lake." Although the path back from acute
recession (another 1970s legacy) is by no means complete on a
citywide basis, the downtown area is now a hub of energy. Cleveland
boasts a sensitive and fond restoration of the Lake Erie/Cuyahoga
River waterfront, a superb constellation of museums, glittering
city center malls and new downtown super-stadiums. Add to that
the recent arrival of several major corporate headquarters and
classy hotels - and, of course, the Rock and Roll Hall
of Fame - and there's an unmistakeable buzz about the
place.
Founded in 1796, Cleveland profited greatly, thirty
years later, from the opening of the Ohio Canal between
the Ohio River and Lake Erie. During the city's heyday, which
began with the Civil War and lasted until the 1920s, its vast
iron and coal supplies made it one of the most important steel
and shipbuilding centers in the world. John
D. Rockefeller made his billions here, as did the many
others whose now-decrepit old mansions line "Millionaires'
Row." This has become a no-go area, along with several other
bleak and faceless danger spots. Despite the investment of billions
of dollars, the scars of deprivation are still visible if you
wander too far off the tourist path.
South and west of the city are several spots of interest, including
the quaint lakeshore community of Vermilion ,
the tiny liberal college sanctuary of Oberlin ,
and the charming hamlet of Peninsula .