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As I-90 sweeps down into the state's second largest
city, BUFFALO , downtown looms up in a cluster
of Art Deco spires and glass-box skyscrapers - Manhattan in miniature
on Lake Erie. The city's early twentieth-century prosperity is
reflected in such architecturally significant structures as the
towering 1928 City Hall (the tallest in the country,
and with a free observation deck on the top floor), the deep red
terra-cotta relief of Louis Sullivan's Guaranty Building
on Church Street, as well as major buildings by H.H. Richardson,
Eliel Saarinen and Frank Lloyd Wright. However, the dereliction
of the immediate environs suggests that the Rust Belt of rotting
industrial towns may now have reached Buffalo. The city has only
distant memories of the boom years, when the massive grain
elevators along the Erie waterfront were busy 24 hours
a day.
That Buffalo's wealthy merchants were a cultured
lot is also apparent in the excellent Albright-Knox Art
Gallery , 1285 Elmwood Ave (Tues-Sat 11am-5pm, Sun noon-5pm;
$4; tel 716/882-8700), two miles north of downtown amid the green
spaces of the F.L. Olmsted-designed Delaware Park
. One of the top modern collections in the world, it's especially
strong on recent American and European art: the Color Field painters,
Abstract Expressionism, Pop, Op and Kinetic Art, with Pollock,
Rothko, Warhol and Rauschenberg among the names. Other highlights
include thirty large paintings by Clyfford Still, and a fine selection
of pieces by earlier artists such as Matisse, Picasso and Monet.
There's also a tasty, chic restaurant open daily for lunch from
noon-3pm.
The area around Delaware Park is Buffalo's choicest
neighborhood, featuring several homes designed by Frank Lloyd
Wright (call 716/884-0095 for guided architectural tour information).
Between here and downtown is Allentown , Buffalo's
most bohemian quarter, its leafy streets lined by lovely Victorian
homes as well as numerous good caf?s, bars and restaurants. Allen
Street between Main Street and Elmwood Avenue holds some of the
best examples of nineteenth-century architecture; some of the
area around Theatre Place downtown is also good.
Being a staunchly blue-collar city, Buffalo loves
its professional sports teams: football's Bills
(tel 716/649-0015), ice hockey's Sabres (tel 716/855-4100) and
baseball's Bisons (tel 716/846-2003 or 1-888/223-6000) who, as
the top farm team for the Cleveland Indians, attract over a million
fans per season to downtown's modern and very pleasant ballpark.
The Lake Erie shoreline west of
Buffalo is lined by numerous beaches where windsurfers
skim across the water and do flips in the waves, while
the Miss Buffalo boat tours (tel 716/856-6696; $12 and up), which
leave from 79 Marine Drive next to the Naval and Servicemen's
Park, provide a good view of the city skyline. To the south, in
the town of Orchard Park, the Burgwardt Bicycle Museum
(Mon-Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1.30-5pm; $4.50; tel 716/662-3853) holds
over two hundred antique bikes and engaging displays of cycling
memorabilia.
