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Shimmering from the desert haze of Nevada like a
latter-day El Dorado, Las Vegas is the most dynamic,
spectacular city on earth. At the start of the twentieth century,
it didn't even exist; at the start of the twenty-first, it's home
to well over one million people, with enough newcomers arriving
to need a new school every month.
Las Vegas is not like other cities. No city in history
has so explicitly valued the needs of visitors above those of
its own population. All its growth has been fueled by tourism,
but the tourists haven't spoiled the "real" city; there
is no real city. Las Vegas doesn't have fascinating little-known
neighborhoods, and it's not a place where visitors can go off
the beaten track to have more authentic experiences. Instead,
the whole thing is completely self-referential; the reason Las
Vegas boasts the vast majority of the world's largest hotels is
that around thirty-seven million tourists each year come to see
the hotels themselves.
Each of these monsters is much more than a mere
hotel, and more too than the casino that invariably lies at its
core. They're extraordinary places, self-contained fantasylands
of high camp and genuine excitement that can stretch as much as
a mile from end to end. Each holds its own flamboyant permutation
of showrooms and swimming pools, luxurious guest quarters and
restaurants, high-tech rides and attractions.
The casinos want you to gamble, and they'll do almost
anything to lure you in; thus the huge moving walkways that pluck
you from the Strip sidewalk, almost against your will, and sweep
you into places like Caesars Palace . Once you're inside, on the
other hand, the last thing they want is for you to leave. Whatever
you came in for, you won't be able to do it without crisscrossing
the casino floor innumerable times; as for finding your way out,
that can be virtually impossible. The action keeps going day and
night, and in this windowless - and clock-free - environment you
rapidly lose track of which is which.
Las Vegas never dares to rest on its laurels, so
the basic concept of the Strip casino has been endlessly refined
since the Western-themed resorts and ranches of the 1940s. In
the 1950s and 1960s, when most visitors arrived by car
, the casinos presented themselves as lush tropical oases at the
end of the long desert drive. Once air travel
took over, Las Vegas opted for Disneyesque fantasy, a process
that started in the late 1960s with Caesars Palace and culminated
with Excalibur and Luxor in the early 1990s.
These days, after six decades of capitalism run
riot, the Strip is locked into a hyperactive craving for thrills
and glamour. First-time visitors tend to expect Las Vegas to be
a repository of kitsch , but the casino owners
are far too canny to be sentimental about the old days. Yes, there
are a few Elvis impersonators around, but what characterizes the
city far more is its endless quest for novelty
. Long before they lose their sparkle, yesterday's showpieces
are blasted into rubble, to make way for ever more extravagant
replacements. The Disney model has now been discarded in favor
of more adult themes, and Las Vegas demands nothing less than
entire cities . Replicas of New York, Paris,
Monte Carlo and Venice now jostle for space on the Strip.
The customer is king in Las Vegas.
What the visitor wants, the city provides. If you come in search
of the cheapest destination in America, you'll enjoy paying rock-bottom
rates for accommodation and hunting out the best buffet bargains.
If it's style and opulence you're after, by contrast, you can
dine in the finest restaurants, shop in the most chic stores,
and watch world-class entertainment; it'll cost you, but not as
much as it would anywhere else. The same guidelines apply to gambling
. The Strip giants cater to those who want sophisticated high-roller
heavens, where tuxedoed James Bond lookalikes toss insouciant
bankrolls onto the roulette tables. Others prefer their casinos
to be sinful and seedy, inhabited by hard-bitten heavy-smoking
low-lifes; there is no shortage of that type of joint either,
especially downtown.
On the face of it, the city is supremely democratic.
However you may be dressed, however affluent or otherwise you
may appear, you'll be welcomed in its stores, restaurants, and
above all its casinos. The one thing you almost certainly won't
get, however, is the last laugh ; all that seductive
deference comes at a price. It would be nice to imagine that perhaps
half of your fellow visitors are skilful gamblers, raking in the
profits at the tables, while the other half are losing, but the
bottom line is that almost nobody's winning. In the words of Steve
Wynn, who built Bellagio and the Mirage , "The only way to
make money in a casino is to own one"; according to the latest
figures, 85 percent of visitors gamble, and they lose an average
of $665 each. On top of that, most swiftly come to see that virtually
any other activity works out cheaper than gambling, so end up
spending their money on all sorts of other things as well. What's
so clever about Las Vegas is that it makes absolutely certain
that you have such a good time that you don't mind losing a bit
of money along the way; that's why they don't even call it "gambling"
anymore, but "gaming."
Finally, while Las Vegas has certainly cleaned up
its act since the early days of Mob domination, there's little
truth in the notion that it's become a family
destination. In fact, for kids, it's doesn't begin to compare
to somewhere like Orlando. Several casinos have added theme parks
or fun rides to fill those odd nongambling moments, but only ten
percent of visitors bring children, and the crowds that cluster
around the exploding volcanoes and pirate battles along the Strip
remain almost exclusively adult.
