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One of the few Nevada towns worth aiming for, if
you're here at the right time of year, is ELKO
, a straggling highway town a hundred miles from the Utah border.
The self-proclaimed last real cowtown in the West is the center
of one of the largest open-range cattle ranching regions in the
US, and the fitting home of the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering
, held here every January. People get together in a sort of celebration
of folk culture, telling stories around campfires, singing about
the lonesome life on the range, and keeping alive the dying traditions
and tales of the Wild West.
During the 72-hour party of the National
Basque Festival , each Fourth of July weekend, hulking
men throw huge logs at each other amid a whole lot of carousing
and downing platefuls of Basque food. The food is available year-round
in restaurants like the Star Hotel , two blocks south of the main
drag at 246 Silver St (tel 775/738-9925). Greyhound and Amtrak
both stop in Elko, and there are dozens of budget motels, such
as the Holiday Motel , 1276 Idaho St (tel 775/738-7187; $35-50).
Elko's visitor center is at 700 Moren Way (Mon-Fri
9am-5pm; tel 775/738-4091 or 1-800/248-ELKO, ).
