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Since the early 1980s, SANTA FE
has ranked among the chic-est destinations in the US, regularly
voted the country's most popular city by upmarket travelers. That
appeal rests on a very solid basis: it's one of America's oldest
and most beautiful cities, founded by Spanish missionaries as
their northernmost colonial capital in 1609, a full ten years
before the Pilgrims reached Plymouth Rock. Spread across a high
plateau at the foot of the stunning Sangre de Cristo Mountains,
New Mexico's capital still glories in the adobe houses and baroque
churches of its original architects, while its newer museums and
galleries attract art-lovers from all over the world.
As upward of a million and a half tourists every
year descend upon a town of just sixty thousand inhabitants, Santa
Fe has inevitably grown somewhat overblown; long-term residents
bemoan what's been lost, while first-time visitors are inclined
to wonder what all the fuss is about. The urban sprawl as you
approach from the interstate makes for a lousy introduction, while
the rigorous insistence that every downtown building should look
like a seventeenth-century Spanish colonial palace takes a bit
of getting used to. This is the only city in the world where what
at first glance appears to be a perfectly preserved ancient adobe
turns out to be a high-rise parking lot, and it would be illegal
to build a gas station that didn't resemble an Indian prayer chamber.
There's still a lot to like about Santa Fe, however,
with its compact, peaceful downtown and walkable streets. Though
Santa Fe style may have become something of a clich, that clich
is changing; the pastel-painted, wooden coyotes that were the
obligatory souvenir ten years ago have, for example, been replaced
by cast-iron sculptures of Kokopelli, the hunch-backed Ancestral
Puebloan flute-player. In a town where the Yellow Pages list over
250 art galleries, you'll get plenty of opportunities to buy one.