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The Sacramento, Capitan and Jicarillamountains
, which rise at the western edge of the Llano Estacado, 85 miles
northwest of Carlsbad, form a rare respite from the scrubby flatness.
Spread out along winding roads that cut through dense groves of
pine, fir and aspen, the main town here, RUIDOSO
- named for the Ruidoso ("Noisy") River - is the fastest-growing
resort in the Southwest.
The Ruidoso Downs racetrack, just
east of town, plays host to a 77-day racing season that culminates
on Labor Day with the All-American Futurity ,
one of the world's richest horse races. Alongside, the Hubbard
Museum of the American West (daily 10am-5pm; $6) holds
displays on the natural and human-related history of horses, with
a selection of memorabilia from around the world such as horse-drawn
Russian sleighs, English road coaches and Wild West stagecoaches.
In winter, attention turns to the 12,000ft slopes
of Ski Apache (tel 505/336-4565, ), a downhill
ski area northwest of town where lift tickets cost around $43
per day. Though operated by the Mescalero Apache, it's not on
tribal land - they bought it as a going concern.
Brochures from Ruidoso's visitor center
, 720 Sudderth Ave (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 1-4pm; tel 505/257-7395
or 1-800/253-2255, ), list dozens of motels ,
such as the inexpensive Apache , 344 Sudderth Ave (tel 505/257-2986
or 1-800/426-0616; $35-50), but supply still fails to meet demand
on big race days. The real local showpiece, however, is the glitzy
Inn of the Mountain Gods (tel 505/464-5141 or 1-800/545-9011,
; $130-160), located three miles southwest of town on Carrizo
Canyon Road. Also owned and run by the Mescalero Apache, the resort
offers ski packages, casino gambling, golf, fishing, tennis and
horseback riding, plus the excellent Dan Li Ka restaurant
.
