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RALEIGH , North Carolina's capital,
stands on I-40 at the very heart of the state, focusing around
the central, pedestrianized Capitol Square .
The Capitol itself is worth a look if only to
see the copy of Canova's bizarre statue of George Washington in
Roman garb (MonFri 8am5pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun 15pm; free). Just steps
away the North Carolina Museum of History , 5
E Edenton St (TuesSat 9am5pm, Sun noon5pm; free; tel 919/715-0200),
is impressively far-reaching, a chronological trot through the
state's history from the viewpoint of its people, with particularly
strong sections on women. Opposite is the North Carolina
Museum of Natural Sciences , 11 W Jones St (MonSat 9am5pm,
Sun 15pm; free; tel 919/733-7450), which looks at local geology,
as well as animal and plant life, going all the way back to the
dinosaur age.
The four-block City Market , south
of the capitol, arranged around Martin Street and Moore Square,
holds a number of good shops and restaurants; check out the local
artists and sculptors at work in Artspace , 201
E Davie St (MonSat 9am5pm). US President Andrew Johnson
was born in a tiny hut just north of where the capitol now stands;
his birthplace has since been moved to Mordecai Historic
Park , north of town at 1 Mimosa St (Mon & WedSat
10am4pm, Sun 14pm; $36). Here you can also see the Mordecai
House , built by a wealthy plantation-owner and continuously
inhabited by the same family for two centuries. A little way out
to the northwest via I-40, the impressive North Carolina
Museum of Art , 2110 Blue Ridge Blvd (TuesThurs &
Sat 9am5pm, Fri 9am9pm, Sun 11am6pm; tours daily 1.30pm; free;
tel 919/839-6262), has an eclectic display of works from Africa,
Europe and the US. It also boasts the particularly good Blue Ridge
Restaurant which is open for lunch Tuesday to Friday, for brunch
at the weekend and dinner on Friday (tel 919/833-3548).
