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The hip, villagey atmosphere of CHAPEL HILL
, on the southwest outskirts of Durham, has benefited from the
rise to national prominence of such local bands as Superchunk,
Archers of Loaf and Ben Folds Five. It's also the hometown of
James "Carolina on My Mind" Taylor. About fifty percent
of the 45,000 population are students, and its position as a bastion
of white liberalism in a poor rural state brings the town its
detractors; that said, it's a pleasant enough place to hang out
for a while, joining the hordes of students in the laid-back bars
and coffeehouses along Franklin Street , which
fringes the north side of campus. Franklin continues west into
the adjacent city of Carrboro , though there's
very little to distinguish the transition.
The University of North Carolina
, dating from 1789, was the nation's first state university and
holds some fine eighteenth-century buildings. The earliest is
Old East , its original brick painted a fashionable
tan in the 1840s. Evidence of the university's wealth can be seen
at the splendid Morehead Planetarium , East Franklin
Street (star shows $4.50, surrounding exhibits free; tel 919/549-1236),
which serves as a NASA training center, and at the Ackland
Art Museum , South Columbia and Franklin streets (Wed-Sat
10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; free; tel 919/966-5736), which is strong
on Greek and Roman antiquities. The UNC visitor center (tel 919/962-1630)
is in the west lobby of the Planetarium, and they lend out Walkmans
that allow you to do a self-guided tour of the campus.
