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CAPE GIRARDEAU , responsible for
giving Rush Limbaugh to the airwaves of the world, looks down
on the Mississippi from a rocky ledge 55 miles downriver. Among
its antebellum and Victorian buildings, the Port Cape Girardeau
, 19 N Water St (tel 573/334-0954), serves tasty ribs. The Sands
Motel at 1448 N Kings Hwy (tel 573/334-2828; $35-50), with a decent
restaurant, is good value. You can camp ten miles
north of town at the Trail of Tears State Park (tel 573/334-1711,
$7 per tent site). The visitor's center at 100
Broadway (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 10am-4pm; tel 1-800/777-0068, )
also has internet access. The road continues
south to Arkansas through reclaimed swamplands, rich in wheat,
corn and melons, but little else.