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The compact fishing village of PROVINCETOWN
("P-Town") is right on the knuckle of what would be
Cape Cod's clenched fist. Silvery clapboard houses, with gloriously
unruly gardens, line its tiny winding streets. Provincetown is
far from secluded: its population of five thousand rises tenfold
in summer. Self-professed bohemians and artists
have always flocked here for the dazzling light and vast beaches,
and in 1914 Eugene O'Neill established the Provincetown Playhouse
in a small hut. It has also become renowned, since the beatnik
1950s, as a gay and lesbian
center. Commercialism, though rampant, is countercultural: gay,
environmentalist and feminist giftshops join arty (not craftsy)
galleries, restaurants and bars on the aptly named Commercial
Street .
Provincetown retains a firm grip on its past. Strict
zoning ensures that there are few new buildings in town, and there
is barely a sign of ugly development. Albeit crowded and raucous
from July through September, P-Town remains a place where history,
natural beauty and, above all, difference, are respected and celebrated
