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INDIANAPOLIS began life in 1821,
when a tract of barely inhabited marshes was designated the state
capital. Its location in the middle of Indiana's rich farmland
bore terrific commercial advantages, but the absence of a navigable
river prohibited the transportation of bulky materials such as
coal and iron to sustain heavy industry. Though home to more than
sixty car manufacturers by 1910, the city never seriously threatened
Detroit's supremacy. Nevertheless, it has become one of the biggest
cities in the world not accessible by water, attracting food,
paper and pharmaceutical industries, including the giant Eli Lilly
Corporation.
Today the city has shaken off such nicknames as
Naptown, India-no-place and Brickhouse in the Cornfield in favor
of its chosen designation as the country's unofficial amateur
sports capital - "amateur" events like the Pan-American
Games and national Olympic trials being worth big money these
days. (Major league pro teams include the basketball Pacers and
the football Colts.) In recent years, it has constructed several
world-class sports stadia (including the retro-styled Conseco
Fieldhouse downtown) along with new hotels, a gaggle
of top-class museums and a zoo - and its old downtown landmarks
have become cultural, shopping and dining complexes. No longer
is it (quite) true that nothing happens here except for the glamorous
Indianapolis 500 car race each May - "the
most televised annual event in the world".