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Flights to Kauai arrive at the capital, LIHUE
, which stands slightly inland of little Nawiliwili Harbor. It's
roughly at the midpoint of the round-island highway (prevented
from completing a loop by the Na Pali cliffs), but as a base it's
pretty undistinguished. The population is just five thousand,
and downtown consists of a few tired plantation-town streets,
well back from the sea and surrounded by anonymous malls.
The small Kauai Museum at 4428
Rice St (Mon-Fri 9am-4pm, Sat 10am-4pm; $5) traces the island's
history from the mythical menehune (the most ancient Hawaiian
people) through Captain Cook's 1778 landfall and on to its sugar-growing
heyday. Kauai was the one island not conquered by Kamehameha the
Great; he spent six years amassing a fleet that never sailed,
and settled in the end for accepting economic tribute.
