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The square at the heart of modern LAHAINA
is all but filled by a magnificent banyan tree
, its aerial roots pushing down into the earth to become sturdy
additional trunks. Just in front, in the small harbor, the replica
square-rigged Carthaginian houses a lackluster maritime
museum (daily 10am-5pm; $4). The Pioneer Inn
nearby is Lahaina's main social center, great for a convivial,
if not quiet, beer.
Otherwise, a walk up Front Street and back down
Wainee Street covers most of what Lahaina has to offer. While
it does hold some appealing nineteenth-century buildings, the
concentration of tourist shops and fast-food places is phenomenal.
The view out to sea, toward the island of Lanai ,
is a welcome respite. If you have the time, consider taking a
ferry there for the day; there's little to see, but the main beach,
at Hulopoe Bay, is a delight. Expedition provides five sailings
daily, from Lahaina Harbor ($50 round-trip; tel 808/661-3756).