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Although it's the Big Island's capital, and largest
town, just 45,000 people live in HILO , which
remains endearing and unpressured. Mass tourism has never taken
off here; basically it rains too much. However, the rain falls
mostly at night, and America's wettest city blazes with tropical
blooms, set against a backdrop of rainbows.
Hilo has always been at the mercy of fire and water.
Cataclysmic tsunami killed 96 people in April 1946, and a further
61 in May 1960. Countless lava flows have also threatened to engulf
it; in 1881 Princess Ruth summoned up all her spiritual power
to halt one on the edge of town, while in 1984 another flow stopped
just eight miles short.
