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Situated in the great double loop of the St Johns
River and with long established lumber and coffee industries,
JACKSONVILLE , the largest city in the US 841
square miles is suspicious of anything that might upset its hard-working
tradition. Pleasure seekers are expected to stick to the beaches.
Even the film industry, which came here seeking a base in the
1910s, was scared off by the zeal of the locals and settled in
California instead. The growing size of the white-collar sector
has eased the years of heavy industry, and efforts have been made
to enhance Jacksonville's appeal by creating parks and riverside
boardwalks.
To get an overview of downtown Jacksonville, take
the Skyway monorail (daily 6.30am7.30pm; 35)
from the Convention Center to Hemming Park, a ten-minute journey
at eye level with the high-rise offices. One noteworthy building
on the north bank of the St John's River is the Florida
Theater , 128 Forsyth St. Elvis Presley arrived in 1957
for his first appearance on an indoor stage, an event noted by
Life magazine because a juvenile court judge sat through the whole
performance to ensure it wasn't too suggestive. Crossing over
to the south bank try taking the River taxi ($2 one-way; $3 round-trip)
you'll find the Museum of Science and History
, 1025 Museum Circle (MonFri 10am5pm, Sat 10am6pm, Sun 16pm; $6),
with its hands-on exhibits and planetarium. Or, for a break from
the commerce and industry of the city, visit the Jacksonville
Museum of Modern Art , 333 N Laura St (TuesFri 11am2pm;
$5), which has a permanent collection of modern art and hosts
traveling exhibitions.
Just south of the Fuller Warren River bridge (I-95),
the Cummer Museum of Art and gardens , 829 Riverside
Drive (Tues & Thurs 10am9pm, Wed, Fri & Sat 10am5pm, Sun
25pm; $6; free Tues after 4pm), stands on the former Cummer family
estate. The spacious rooms and sculpture-lined corridors contain
works by prominent European masters.
From all over Jacksonville you can see the floodlights
of the 73,000-seat Jacksonville Jaguar Stadium
, 1 Altel Stadium Place, home to the National Football League
franchise, and also the scene of the Florida/Georgia college football
clash each autumn.
