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DURANGO is the largest town in
southwest Colorado and the best hub for exploring the Four Corners
region. Founded in 1880 as a refining town and rail junction for
Silverton, 45 miles north, steam trains continue to run along
the spectacular old mining route through the Animas Valley, though
nowadays tourists, not sacks of gold, are the money-making cargo.
The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
runs up to four round-trips daily between May and October, from
a depot at 479 Main Ave at the south end of town (all leave in
early morning; $55 round-trip; reserve tickets at least two weeks
in advance; tel 970/247-2733). Shorter excursions, covering the
most scenic areas of the route, run between late November and
early May (daily 10am; $45).
Durango has also become one of the West's latest
boomtowns, attracting a large influx of long-distance computerized
teleworkers. Combine them with the local population of students
from Fort Lewis College and outdoors enthusiasts
who come to ride their mountain bikes in the area, and you end
up with a town which has a youthful, energetic buzz.
Greyhound services between Denver and Albuquerque
call in at 275 E Eighth Ave. There are plenty of places to eat
and drink : Carver's Bakery & Brewpub , 1022 Main
Ave (tel 970/259-2545), opens at 6.30am for breakfast, serves
Southwestern lunches and dinners, and keeps buzzing later on in
its brewpub role. Steamworks Brewing Co , 801 E Second Ave (tel
970/259-9200), is another good choice to sample local brews and
also serves good food.