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SAN LUIS OBISPO , 160 miles north
of Santa Barbara and halfway between LA and San Francisco, is
a few miles inland, but makes the best base for exploring the
surrounding coastal regions. Still primarily an agricultural market
center, it holds more nineteenth-century architecture than any
other Californian city (especially around Buchon Street), plenty
of good restaurants, a couple of pubs, and - outside summer holiday
weekends - plenty of accommodation.
The compact core of San Luis is eminently walkable,
centered around the late eighteenth-century Mission San
Luis Obispo de Tolosa (daily 9-4pm, June-Oct closes at
5pm; suggested donation), a dark and unremarkable church that
was the prototype for the now ubiquitous red-tiled roof, developed
to replace the original, flammable thatch in response to Native
American arson attacks.
Between the mission and the visitors center, Mission
Plaza 's terraces step down along San Luis creek, along
which footpaths meander, crisscrossed by bridges every hundred
feet and overlooked by shops and outdoor restaurants on the south
bank. The undeniable highlight is the stunning pink Fremont
Theater , 1035 Monterey St, an Art Deco marvel that becomes
a riot of splashy neon at night and still plays movies. Higuera
Street , a block south of Mission Plaza, is the main
drag, and springs to life on Thursday afternoons for the Farmers'
Market , when the street is closed to cars and filled
with vege-table stalls, mobile barbecues and street-corner musicians.
