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Sitting in lush farming land, replete with manicured
golf courses, condominiums and millionaires, PALM SPRINGS
does not conform to any typical image of the desert, embodying
a strange mix of Spanish Colonial and mid-century modern styling.
The massive bulk of Mount San Jacinto looms over its low-slung
buildings, casting a welcome shadow over the town in the late
afternoon. Ever since Hollywood stars first came here in the 1930s,
laying claim to ranch-style estates and holing up in elite hotels,
the clean dry air and sunshine, just 120 miles east of LA, have
made Palm Springs irresistible. For years, high-school kids arrived
in their thousands for Spring Break, until civic zeal ran them
out of town, while others come specifically to sober up: the Betty
Ford Center in nearby Rancho Mirage draws a star-studded
patient list to its booze- and drug-free environment, attempting
to undo a lifetime's worth of behavioral disorders in an $11,000
28-day stay.
Palm Springs wasn't always like this. Once it was
the domain of the Cahuillan Indians ; they were
allocated this land in the 1890s, but exact zoning wasn't settled
until the 1940s, by which time the development of hotels and leisure
complexes was well under way. Under an odd checkerboard system,
every other square mile of Palm Springs forms part of the
Agua Caliente (Spanish for "hot water")
Indian Reservation , and high rents have made this the
second richest tribe in America, worth more than $2 billion wealth
that's been increasing with the new Casino Morongo, right in the
heart of town.
