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A few miles north of Monterey along the peninsula,
PACIFIC GROVE - or "Butterfly Town USA,"
as it likes to call itself - began as a campground and Methodist
retreat in 1875, where Christian revivalists prohibited booze,
bare skin and reading the Sunday newspapers, and which still holds
ornate wooden cottages from those long-forgotten
days. One of the few other reminders of that pious period is the
Gothic Revival church St Mary's by the Sea ,
Central Ave at 12th Street, an 1887 redwood marvel with a signed
Tiffany window near the altar. Ocean View Boulevard circles
the coast around the town, passing the headland of Lovers
Point - originally called Lovers of Jesus Point - where
preachers used to hold sunrise services. Surrounded in early summer
by the colorful red-and-purple cloaks of blooming ice plant, it's
one of the peninsula's best beaches . Every year,
from November through early March, hundreds of thousands of golden
Monarch butterflies come to Pacific Grove to
escape the winter chill, forming orange and black blankets on
the Butterfly Trees , on Ridge Road, a block
west of Lighthouse Avenue. At the end of the avenue, near the
tip of Monterey Peninsula, stands the 150-year-old Point
Pinos lighthouse (Thurs-Sun 1-4pm; free), the oldest
continuously operating lighthouse on the California coast and,
perhaps contrary to grander expectation, is basically a charming
little farmhouse with a revolving light poking out from its roof.
