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The rambling metropolis of LOS ANGELES
sprawls across the thousand square miles of a great desert basin,
knitted together by an intricate network of congested freeways
between the ocean and the snowcapped mountains. Its colorful melange
of shopping malls, palm trees and swimming pools is both mildly
surreal and startlingly familiar, thanks to the celluloid self-image
that it has spread all over the world.
LA is a young city; in the mid-nineteenth century,
it was a community of white American immigrants, poor Chinese
laborers and wealthy Mexican ranchers, with a population of less
than fifty thousand. Only on completion of the transcontinental
railroad in the 1880s did it really begin to grow, as a national
mecca for good health, clean living, plentiful sunshine and endless
acres of citrus crops. The biggest group of transplants were refugees
from the Midwest, who created a new political ruling class to
replace the old Mexican elite. The old ranchos were soon subdivided,
the population grew rapidly, and the enduring symbol of the city
became the family-sized suburban house (with swimming pool and
two-car garage). The biggest boom came after World War II with
the mushrooming of the aeronautics industry which, until post-Cold
War military cutbacks, accounted for one in four jobs.
The first-time visitor may well find Los Angeles
thrilling and threatening in equal proportions; it's a place that
picks you up and sweeps you along whether you want it to or not.
While it has its fine-art museums, California cuisine and a few
old-fashioned urban plazas, what people really come here for is
to experience the city that has come to epitomize the American
Dream the fantasy worlds of Disneyland and
Hollywood , as well as the gilded opulence of Beverly
Hills and Malibu .
