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Thanks to a billion-dollar clean-up, downtown Long
Beach is not the seedy stomping grounds of off-duty sailors
that it was twenty-odd years ago. Pine Avenue
is an enjoyable stretch of restored architecture and bargain antique
stores, but the only reason most tourists cross to the far side
of LA's massive harbor is to see the Queen Mary
(daily 10am-6pm; $19 guided tours, kids $15). The Cunard flagship
from the 1930s until the 1960s, the Queen Mary is now a luxury
hotel, and guided tours present a sentimentalized version of its
days of elegance and refinement. The huge geodesic dome nearby
housed Howard Hughes's Spruce Goose airplane until it was sold
and moved to Oregon in 1992, but this tourist loss has been more
than remedied by the opening of the Aquarium of the Pacific
(daily 10am-6pm; $17; ), along shoreline Drive, a terrific exploration
of aquatic flora and fauna in three distinct geographic and climatic
zones from around the world. As you drive along the coast of Long
Beach, don't be fooled by the sight of the bright pastel islands
just off shore; far from natural, they're actually oil-drilling
platforms in disguise.
