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Now an industrial city of roughly 70,000 people,
FORT SMITH , on the Oklahoma border, maintains
a pronounced Western feel. Until Isaac C. Parker - the "Hanging
Judge" - took over in 1875, this was a rowdy pioneer town
uncomfortably close to Indian Territory, a sanctuary for robbers
and bandits. Parker sent out two hundred marshals to round up
the fugitives; in 21 years he sentenced 160 to death and saw 79
go to the gallows. Fort Smith National Historic Site
on Rogers Avenue features remains of the original fort, Parker's
courtroom, the dingy basement jail and a set of gallows (daily
9am-5pm; $3). Old Main Street in Van
Buren , on the opposite bank of the Arkansas River, is
a stretch of over seventy restored buildings that has been used
in numerous Westerns.
Fort Smith's visitor center , Miss
Laura's, 2 North B St (Mon-Sat 9am-4pm, Sun 1-4pm, tel 1-800/637-1477),
is oddly housed in a restored former brothel and offers $1 trolley
tours of the city (Mon-Sat 9.30am-3.30pm; every 45min).
Lodgings in Fort Smith include the centralHoliday Inn
, 700 Rogers Ave (tel 501/783-1000, fax 501/783-0312, ; $75-100/$100-130).
For good-value, tasty home-cooked Italian food
, try Taliano's , 201 N 14th St (tel 501/785-2292).