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The busy port and paper manufacturing city of MOBILE
(pronounced Mo-beel ) traces its origins back to a French community
founded in 1702. These early white settlers brought with them
Mardi Gras , celebrated in Mobile continuously
since 1704 - several years before New Orleans. Virtually every
street is transformed in early spring by the delicate colors of
azaleas, camellias and dogwoods - a beautiful complement to the
many early eighteenth-century Spanish and colonial-style buildings.
Parallels with New Orleans are everywhere you look, from wrought-iron
balconies to street names like Conti and Bienville and gumbo specials
in the restaurants.
Mobile survived the torches of the Union army during
the Civil War, and possesses enough antebellum buildings to designate
four sizeable areas as historic districts. Even so, the city is
unlikely to hold your attention for more than a day. The obvious
place to start exploring is Fort Conde (daily
8am-5pm; free), a reconstruction of the city's 1724 French fort
that was constructed to mark the Bicentennial in 1976. Dioramas
in its low-ceilinged rooms cover local history, while its ramparts
provide a good view of the World War II battleship USS
Alabama permanently moored nearby (fort & ship daily
8am-6pm; $10, parking $2). Fanning out north of the fort, the
Church Street Historic District holds 59, mostly
pre-Civil War, buildings, as well as two museums (both Tues-Sat
10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; free). The Museum of Mobile
, 111 S Royal St (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sun noon-5pm), displays glittering
Mardi Gras costumes and lavish horse-drawn carriages, while steam-powered
fire engines, resplendent in original livery, shining brass bells
and trumpets, are the stars of the Phoenix Fire Museum
, 750 S Clairborne St (Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 1-5pm).
Downtown Mobile's lack of action outside of Mardi
Gras is made up for by an amazing display of greenery, particularly
down its main thoroughfare, Government Street
, which is shaded by a canopy of adjoining oaks, and central Bienville
Square , a popular picnic spot with free lunchtime concerts
every Wednesday during summer.
