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KETCHIKAN , five hundred miles
north of Seattle, is Alaska's "first city," and as the
first port of call for many cruise ships, its historic downtown,
wedged between water and forested mountains, becomes saturated
in summer with elderly tourists. Beyond the souvenir shopping
it can be a delight, built into steep hills and partly propped
on wooden pilings, with boardwalks, wooden staircases and totem
poles dotted throughout.
By 1886, white settlers had opened the first of
dozens of canneries in what was soon to be the "salmon capital
of the world." Forests of cedar, hemlock and spruce, which
had provided timber for Tlingit homes and totems, also fed the
town's sawmills. The timber and fishing industries have declined,
and with the closure of the antiquated pulp mill in 1997 the town's
economy is in a state of flux.
The state's fourth largest city is a strong contender
for the nation's wettest; annual precipitation averages 165 inches.
The tourist board shrugs it off as "liquid sunshine"
and, indeed, Ketchikan's perennial drizzle and sporadic showers
won't spoil your visit