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SAN JOSE DEL CABO , 33km east of
Cabo San Lucas, is the older and altogether more traditional of
the two resorts, founded in 1730 as a mission and growing into
an agricultural centre and small port. Few traces remain of its
earliest years, however, with the most of the older buildings
dating from the 1880s and onward, yet although fast being swamped,
the old plaza and the Paseo Mijares
(which now leads to a modern hotel zone about 1km seaward) are
still more or less intact, and there's a small local museum
in the Casa de la Cultura. The numerous shops and restaurants
that line the streets and shady courtyards are interesting enough,
the latter offering a good variety of cuisines, but prices are
high. Visitors, however, tend to come for the aquatic flora and
fauna, and most of the hotels can help arrange tours, guides and
equipment, but you'd be wise to shop around.
To get to the beaches it's a considerable
walk down Mijares to the hotel zone, and on from there to find
empty sand: they stretch for miles so keep walking until you find
a quiet spot. Some 2km east is the lesser-known alternative
Pueblo La Playa ( La Playita ), a hundred-year-old fishing
village that offers numerous options for sportfishing; try Gordo
Banks Pangas (tel 1/142-1147, www.gordobanks.com ). The waters
at Gordo Banks here house the highest concentrations of gamefish
in the waters of Los Cabos. The estuary just
northeast of town is home to hundreds of birds and makes for an
interesting hour or two, reached by kayak or on foot. The town
celebrates it's annual festival the third week
in March - as good a time as any to visit.
