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Set over 2400m up in its shallow mountain bowl and
crammed with over 20 million people (from fewer than five million
in 1960), MEXICO CITY is one of the world's most
densely populated urban areas, said to receive a thousand immigrants
each day from the rest of the country. At times frustrating, the
longer you spend there the more rewarding it can become, with
unstructured wandering throwing up all sorts of surprises, and
in a few days you can get around the main sights and soak up a
good deal of the vibrant atmosphere. Despite a certain seediness
found amidst the elegance of the new quarters and the genteel
decay of the older parts of the city, the capital is nowhere near
as intimidating as you might expect. Nonetheless, you may still
prefer to take in the city a couple of days at a time, taking
off in between to the smaller neighbouring colonial cities to
recharge. You'll also find the city easier still if you acclimatize
to the country first - if at all possible try not to spend too
long here when you first arrive.
As you fly in or arrive by bus over the mountains,
you'll catch glimpses of Popocat?petl and Ixtacc?huatl, the volcanoes
which every visitor used to admire, and which Sybille Bedford,
author of a book on Mexico in the early 1950s, described as "Japanese-contoured
shapes of pastel blue and porcelain snow, and thin formal curls
of smoke afloat in a limpid sky". These days, "Popo"
is more often perceived as a threat, with the international press
depicting its recent activity as a major menace to the capital.
In reality, the volcano is 65km away, and though dust may temporarily
close the airport during major outpourings, the city is highly
unlikely to get smothered. The volcanoes are now rarely visible
from the centre, courtesy of the city's pollution, which compensates
by diffracting the light and producing wonderful golden sunsets
