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Capital of Jalisco and second city of the Mexican
Republic, GUADALAJARA has a reputation as a slower,
more conservative and traditional place than Mexico City, somewhere
you can stop and catch your breath. Many claim that this is the
most Mexican of Mexican cities, having evolved as a regional centre
of trade and commerce, without the imbalances of Monterrey's industrial
giants or Mexico City's chaotic scale. Being less frenetic than
the capital, however, doesn't make it peaceful, and by any standards
this is a huge, sprawling, noisy and energetic city. Growth has,
if anything, been accelerating in recent years, boosted by the
campaign to reduce Mexico City's pollution by encouraging people
and industry to move to the provinces, and its partial conversion
to a sleek metropolis has resulted in a hike in prices and some
sacrifice of Mexican mellowness in favour of a US-style business
ethic. However, enthusiasm for the new has not replaced affection
for the old and it's still an enjoyable place to visit, with the
edge on all other big cities of Mexico for trees and flowers,
cleanliness and friendliness. It also remains a great place to
see something of traditional and modern Mexico, offering everything
from museums, galleries and colonial architecture, to magnificent
revolutionary murals by Jos? Clemente Orozco, to a nightlife enlivened
by a large student population.
Parks, little squares and open spaces dot Guadalajara,
while right downtown around the cathedral is a series of plazas
unchanged since the days of the Spanish colonization. This small
colonial heart of the city can still, at weekends especially,
recall an old-world atmosphere and provincial elegance. The centre
is further brightened by the Plaza Tapatia ,
which, driven straight through the heart of some of the oldest
parts in the late nineteenth century, manages to look as if it
has always been there. It creates new sight-lines between some
of Guadalajara's most monumental buildings and opens out the city's
historical core to pedestrians, as well as mariachi bands and
street theatre. Around this relatively unruffled nucleus revolve
raucous and crowded streets more typical of modern Mexico, while
further out still, in the wide boulevards of the new suburbs,
you'll find smart hotels, shopping malls and modern office blocks.
