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The old road to Acapulco ran out from the capital
via Cuernavaca and Taxco, and although the modern route (Hwy-95D)
skirts the former and gives Taxco a wide berth, both remain firmly
established on the tourist treadmill. The journey starts well:
a steep, winding climb out of the Valley of M?xico into refreshing
pine forests, and then gently down, leaving the city far behind.
It's a fast road, too, and, smog permitting, offers lovely views
back over Mexico City.
CUERNAVACA has always been a place
of escape from the city - the Aztecs called it Cuauhnahuac (Place
by the Woods), and it became a favourite resort and hunting ground
for their rulers. Cort?s seized and destroyed the city during
the siege of Tenochtitl?n, but he too ended up building himself
a palace here, the Spanish corrupting the name to Cuernavaca (Cow
Horn) for no better reason than their inability to cope with the
original. The fashion then established has been followed ever
since: the Emperor Maximilian and the deposed Shah of Iran both
had houses here and the inner suburbs are now packed with the
high-walled mansions of wealthy Mexicans and the expats who flock
down here from the US and Canada each winter.
For the casual visitor the modern city is in many
ways a disappointment. Its spring-like climate remains, but as
capital of the state of Morelos, Cuernavaca is rapidly becoming
industrialized and the streets in the centre permanently clogged
with traffic and fumes. The gardens and villas that shelter the
rich are almost all hidden behind high walls, or in districts
so far out that you won't see them. It seems an ill-planned and
widely spread city, certainly not easy to get about on foot, though
much of what you'll want to see is close to the centre and accessible
on foot. Food and lodging, too, come relatively expensive, in
part thanks to the large foreign contingent, swelled by tourists
and by students from the many language schools. On the other hand,
the town is attractive enough and makes a good base for heading
north to the village of Tepoztlan , with its
raucous fiesta, or south to the ruins of Xochicalco
. If you are at all interested in Mexican history, it may also
be worthwhile taking a trip to Cuautla , where
Emiliano Zapata is buried in the Jard?n Revoluci?n del Sur.
