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Pint-sized WINDSOR , sloping along
the shore of an inlet of the Minas Basin 25km from Wolfville,
was originally settled by Acadians and it was here in 1750 that
the British built a fort to overawe them. The stockade was subsequently
used to hold Acadians during the deportations, but all that remains
today is a sorry-looking timber blockhouse conserved as the Fort
Edward National Historic Site (mid-June to Aug daily
9am-5pm; free), which, complete with musket loopholes and cannon
portholes, perches on a grassy, treeless hill overlooking Hwy
101 and the tidal mud flats that stretch out towards the basin.
On the other side of town, set in its own leafy grounds on a hillside
1km west of the centre, is the Haliburton House Museum
(June to mid-Oct Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm, Sun 1-5.30pm; donation),
one-time home of Thomas Chandler Haliburton, a mid-nineteenth-century
judge and humorist. The house has been returned to something akin
to its appearance when Haliburton lived here, writing the short
stories that made him famous - cuttingly sarcastic tales whose
protagonist, the itinerant Yankee clock pedlar, Sam Slick
of Slickville , travels Nova Scotia meanly defrauding
its gullible, unenterprising inhabitants. Immensely popular at
the time, the stories are interesting as literary history, but
leave a nasty High-Tory taste, although it was through Slick that
Haliburton coined a bucketload of epigrams that remain in use:
"six of one and half a dozen of the other"; "facts
are stranger than fiction"; "raining cats and dogs";
"the early bird gets the worm"; and "as quick as
a wink" - and many more - all came from his pen. Most of
Haliburton's work is out of print, but the museum has a small
supply and, if you're keen to sample his stories, begin with The
Clockmaker ($7.50).
