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The economic centre of northeastern Ontario, sprawling
SUDBURY , some 165km north of Parry Sound , is parked
on the edge of the Sudbury Basin, a pit created either by a volcano
or, the preferred theory, by a giant meteor. Whatever did the
damage, the effect was to throw one of the world's richest deposits
of nickel and copper towards the surface. It was the nickel -
used to temper steel - that made Sudbury's fortune, but its by-products
caused devastation. Most of the damage was done by a smelting
method known as heap roasting, used until the 1920s, which spread
clouds of sulphurous fumes over forests already ravaged by lumber
firms and mineral prospectors, who often started fires to reveal
the traces of metal in the bare rocks. Likened to Hell or Hiroshima,
the bleak landscape had only one advantage: in 1968 it enabled
Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong to practise their great leap for
mankind in a ready-made lunar environment.
Having continued to produce sulphur-laden smoke
from the stacks of their nickel smelters, the mining companies
were finally forced to take action when a whole community of workers
from Happy Valley, just northeast of Sudbury, were evacuated in
the 1970s because of the number of sulphur-induced illnesses.
Since then, pollutants in the immediate environs have been reduced
and the city's ambitious re-greening programme was even lauded
at the UN's 1992 Earth Summit in Rio. As a result, thousands of
acres have now spluttered back to life and the thirty lakes in
the vicinity of Sudbury, including one in the middle of town,
are no longer stagnant pools of vinegar.
Sudbury's multinational population of 160,000 -
over half of them French-speaking - are fiercely proud of their
city, though it can seem that the main effect of the recent redevelopment
has been an efflorescence of shopping malls. That said, the city
can boast two of north Ontario's most impressive tourist sights,
Science North and Big Nickel Mine
