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The capital of the second biggest country on the
planet, OTTAWA struggles with its reputation
as a bureaucratic labyrinth of little charm and character. The
problem is that many Canadians who aren't federal employees -
and even some who are - blame the city for all the country's woes.
All too aware of this, the Canadian government have spent lashings
of dollars to turn Ottawa into "a city of urban grace in
which all Canadians can take pride" - so goes the promotional
literature, but predictably this very investment is often resented.
Furthermore, the hostility is deeply rooted, dating back as far
as 1857 when Queen Victoria, inspired by some genteel watercolours,
declared Ottawa the capital, leaving Montr?al and Toronto smarting
at their rebuff.
In truth, Ottawa is neither grandiose nor tedious,
but a lively cosmopolitan city of 330,000 with a clutch of outstanding
national museums , a pleasant riverside setting
and superb cultural facilities like the National Arts Centre,
plus acres of parks and gardens and miles of bicycle and jogging
paths. It also possesses lots of good hotels
and B&Bs and a busy cafe-bar and
restaurant scene - enough to keep the most diligent sightseer
going for a day or three, maybe more. Here too, for once in English-speaking
Ontario, Canada's bilingual laws make sense: Qu?bec's Hull is
just across the river and on the streets of Ottawa you'll hear
as much French as English.
