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VICTORIA has a lot to live up to.
Leading US travel magazine Cond? Nast Traveler has voted it one
of the world's top-ten cities to visit, and world number one for
ambience and environment. And it's not named after a queen and
an era for nothing. Victoria has gone to town in serving up lashings
of fake Victoriana and chintzy commercialism - tearooms, Union
Jacks, bagpipers, pubs and ersatz echoes of empire confront you
at every turn. Much of the waterfront area has an undeniably quaint
and likeable English feel - "Brighton Pavilion with the Himalayas
for a backdrop", as Kipling remarked - and Victoria has more
British-born residents than anywhere in Canada, but its tourist
potential is exploited chiefly for American visitors who make
the short sea journey from across the border. Despite the seasonal
influx, and the sometimes atrociously tacky attractions designed
to part tourists from their money, it's a small, relaxed and pleasantly
sophisticated place, worth lingering in if only for its inspirational
museum. It's also rather genteel in parts, something underlined
by the number of gardens around the place and some nine hundred
hanging baskets that adorn much of the downtown area during the
summer. Though often damp, the weather here is extremely mild:
Victoria's meteorological station has the distinction of being
the only one in Canada to record a winter in which the temperature
never fell below freezing.
