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Alberta's provincial capital, EDMONTON
is among Canada's most northerly cities, and at times - notably
in the teeth of its bitter winters - it can seem a little too
far north for comfort. Situated above the waters of the North
Saskatchewan River, whose park-filled valley winds below the high-rises
of downtown, the city tries hard with its festivals, parks, restaurants
and urban-renewal projects. With a downtown area that still has
the somewhat unfinished feel of a frontier town, however, it's
perhaps appropriate that the premier attraction for the vast majority
of visitors is a shopping centre, the infamous West Edmonton
Mall . This certainly has curiosity value, but not really
enough to merit a special journey here. Downtown has a handful
of modest sights, though most enjoyment in the city is to be had
in Old Strathcona , a rejuvenated "historic"
district south of the North Saskatchewan River filled with heritage
buildings, modest museums and plenty of eating and drinking venues.
Edmonton lacks the big set-piece museums of Calgary and Vancouver,
but its Space and Science Centre is a sight within
a whisker of the first rank.